After a fabulous Fam Trip I could not leave Molise without seeing its famous coast in the Adriatic Sea. A few days after finishing our mountain trip I rented a car in Naples and drove all the way to Termoli. From here I knew I could explore the short 39 kilometers of Molise’s coast.
Driving up to Termoli, I found myself once more immersed in the majestic Molise mountains. After driving pass Campobasso landscape certainly change, softer hills and valleys were emerging. This main road towards Termoli goes over the Guardalfiera Lake, apparently the longest road over water in Europe. Just driving across this beautiful landscape was worth the visit!
My fist visit was to a family owned vineyard, Borgo Di Colloredo in the town of Nuova Cliternia. The Di Giulio family arrived from Abruzzo to Molise in 1960 to start a new life, planting their first vineyard and never looked back. Nearly 70% of their wine is now exported to Germany, Switzerland, Belgium and Canada. They produce the typical southern Italian grapes varieties such as Aglianico, Greco, Trebbiano, Malvasia and Falanghina but they are also experimenting and innovating with other varieties.
They also have a stunning luxury retreat call Masseria Le Piane. This is a private rural house with 4 rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and quite the best views of the Adriatic Sea! It is so secluded and peaceful that the only way you can reach it if by driving into a ‘Tratturo’. What is a Tratturo? Molise’s ancient roads where shepherds used to move their herds between Abruzzo and Puglia. Today these wild roads are quite popular to explore the region, lots of travel companies organize adventure tours by foot, jeep or horse riding.
Next stop? A visit to an award-winning olive oil factory in Ururi, the Marina Colonna Factory . My first impression was that I had arrived into a natural conservation area, the sound of birds in the trees surrounding the main house were incredible. Signora Marina kindly show me around her estate. The business is being in her family for over 200 years. Her factory produce four different oils from 18000 olive trees. You could also stay in this charming estate. Ms Marina has a luxurious two-bedroom private apartment in her stately family house.
I drove back to Termoli eager to see what somebody said was the most colorful sunset in Italy. With camera in hand I walked around the very small old town. It took less than 5 min to find the perfect spot, a little balcony behind the main square overlooking the bay. It was quite spectacular, friendly locals were stopping all the time to reassure me I was in fact in the best place to see their sunset!
Waking up very early next day to an even better sunrise I walked around the beach, towards the only surviving Trabocco. These are old wood constructions over the water designed by fishermen in the 18th century, most of them now close to the public. The sea in Termoli is one of the cleanest I have seeing in Italy. Their spectacular shades of aquamarine and emerald colors reminded me of ‘Palafitos’, over water bungalows in my beloved Venezuela.
My final destination were the towns of Carovilli, Guadiarola and Sepino. In Carovilli I had the best meal of this trip, at the Masseria Monte Pizzi Here Nadia and her family will prepare delicious meals with local and homegrown products and if you would like to enjoy their excellent wine you could also stay in one of their four rooms overnight. In this Masseria you will enjoy without a doubt the best views of Molise and the Apennine mountains!
In Guardiarola I visited Barak’s Casale Kolidur is another enchanting rural house in the Molise mountains. The owner Barak runs many different activities, from Yoga retreats to private sailing excursion to the Tremiti Islands. Final visit of the trip was to Saepinum, today known as Altilia. This was a Samnites town (600 BC) capture by the Romans in 293 BC. Remains of the city walls, theater, temples of Jupiter and Apollo plus other city buildings can be explored and you can go as close as you like! Free entrance.
Now you know, Molise is an Italian region full of history, beautiful nature, amazing landscapes, divine food, great wine, award winning olive oil and extremely friendly people. If you want to feel true Italian hospitality and reasonable prices head towards this hidden gem of Italy!
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